Overview of Techniques To Sew With Different Materials

We have all been there. You find a bolt of fabric that speaks to your soul. Maybe it is a slippery rayon that drapes like a dream, or perhaps a plush minky that feels like a cloud. You buy it and bring it home. But then, you either ruin it because it didn’t react to your stitching like you thought it would, or it sits in your stash for years because you’re intimidated to try.

There are hundreds of different types of fabrics you can sew with, and each benefits from special considerations to ensure neat stitching and protect the fabric’s quality. Even cotton fabrics, which are what every sewer learns on, have a certain degree of mastery that’s required before you start producing truly great work.

Inspired to Sew is here to help you gain more confidence in different techniques you can use to sew with different materials. Let’s get into the overview!

Quilting Cottons and Batiks

You might think you know everything about standard cottons. After all, they are the backbone of the sewing and quilting world. However, even these friendly fabrics have quirks, especially when you look at variations like Batiks.

Perfect the Press

Cotton remembers creases. This is its superpower and its kryptonite. So before you make a single cut, you must address the wrinkles. A dry iron simply won’t cut it for deep creases in 100 percent cotton. Use these tips:

• Use plenty of steam to relax the fibers.
• Press the fabric, don’t drag the iron, to avoid distorting the grainline.
• Use a clapper to set seams flat immediately after ironing.
• Consider using a starch alternative like Best Press for extra crispness.

Manage Needle Punctures

Batiks are created using a wax-resist dyeing process, and they feature a higher thread count than standard printed cottons. Consequently, a dull needle will make an audible popping sound as it pierces the fabric. This can snag threads and ruin the look of your piecing. You should switch to a Microtex or Sharp needle (size 80/12) rather than a standard Universal needle. The sharper point penetrates the dense weave cleanly to create a beautiful stitch.

Minky (e.g., Cuddle)

Everyone loves the feel of Cuddle, but sewing with it can feel like stitching together a soaped-up Slip ’N Slide. These polyester knits have a directional pile (nap) and a slick back that loves to slide around under the presser foot.

Embrace the Walking Foot

If you do not own a walking foot (or even feed foot), stop what you are doing and get one. Standard presser feet slide over the top layer of fabric while the feed dogs move the bottom layer. With slippery Cuddle, this causes the layers to become misaligned. A walking foot feeds the top layer through at the same rate as the bottom layer. Here are the benefits of that:

• It keeps the layers perfectly synchronized.
• It prevents the fabric from stretching out of shape.
• It helps navigate thick seams without stalling the machine.
• It creates even stitch lengths regardless of the fabric thickness.

Control the Mess

Cutting into plush fabrics creates a snowstorm of polyester fluff. This lint can clog your machine and cover your clothes. Keep a lint roller and a handheld vacuum nearby. Vacuum the raw edges of your cut pieces immediately. Furthermore, you should clean out your bobbin case area after every project involving Cuddle fabric. The accumulation of lint can mess with your timing and tension if you don’t clear it out.

Cozy Flannels

There is nothing quite like a rag quilt or a pajama set made from high-quality flannel, such as the Mammoth Flannel lines. These brushed fabrics are soft and warm, but their loose weave poses unique challenges regarding shrinkage and stability.

Pre-Washing Is Mandatory

Flannel shrinks. In fact, it shrinks a lot more than standard cotton. If you skip pre-washing, your finished garment or quilt will distort the first time it goes through the laundry. Wash and dry the fabric using the hottest settings you plan to use for the final item. This gets all the shrinkage out of the way before you sew a single stitch.

Reducing Seam Bulk

Because flannel is thicker than quilting cotton, seams can become bulky. This is particularly true where multiple seams intersect. Here are some tips to avoid trouble in this area:

• Press seams open rather than to the side whenever possible.
• Grade your seam allowances by trimming one layer shorter than the other.
• Use a slightly longer stitch length (3.0mm) to accommodate the thickness.
• Hammer thick seams with a rubber mallet to flatten them before sewing over them.

Slippery Apparel Fabrics

When you start making apparel, you usually start dealing with rayon, voile, or lawn. These fabrics have a beautiful drape but can behave like liquid on the cutting table.

Stabilize Before You Cut

The fabric shifts as you try to cut it, which can result in wonky pattern pieces. To combat this, place a layer of tissue paper underneath the fabric. Pin the pattern, fabric, and tissue paper together. Then, cut through all layers. The paper provides friction and stability. Afterward, simply tear the tissue paper away.

Select the Right Needle and Thread

A heavy needle will punch giant holes in delicate apparel fabrics. Switch to a size 70/10 or even 60/8 needle. Additionally, use a finer thread, such as 50wt or 60wt cotton or polyester. A heavy thread can weigh down lightweight seams and cause puckering.

Making the Most of Your Stash

You have the knowledge. You have the machine. Now you just need to practice. The only way to truly get comfortable with different materials and the best techniques to sew with them is to use them. So don’t let that gorgeous yardage sit on a shelf collecting dust because you are worried about messing it up. Fabric is meant to be used, loved, and worn.

And if you are feeling inspired to expand your fabric library, you need a source that understands quality. Head over to Inspired to Sew to browse an incredible selection of sewing and quilting fabrics online and in-store. Our curated collection has everything you need to tackle your next project with confidence.